Valencia's historic markets: the Central, Colón, Russafa and El Cabanyal, and how to visit them

Valencia's markets are much more than places to shop. They are modernist architecture, city history and the best way to understand its cooking: the huerta, the sea and rice dishes make more sense in front of a stall than in any book. That is why a walk round a market is one of the best mornings you can have in Valencia.

This guide covers what each historic market offers, what to try, when to go and what to see nearby.

The essentials in 30 seconds

• Central Market: the city's great market, modernist, in the heart of the old town.
• Mercado de Colón: a modernist building turned into a food hall.
• Russafa and El Cabanyal: neighbourhood markets, with fewer tourists and plenty of life.
• Go in the morning: that is when there is most atmosphere and produce.
• Next to the Central Market, the Silk Exchange, a World Heritage Site.

The Central Market

Opened in 1928, it is one of Europe's great working food markets: more than 8,000 square metres under domes of iron, glass and ceramics, with hundreds of stalls selling fruit, vegetables, meat, fish, charcuterie and salted fish.

• What to see: the dome, the stained glass and the ceramic façade, and the parrot and the fish on the weathervanes.
• What to try: seasonal fruit, salted fish such as mojama and hueva, and vegetables from the huerta.
• When to go: Monday to Saturday mornings. Saturday is the liveliest day.
• Nearby: the Silk Exchange, the church of Santos Juanes and the Carmen quarter.

The Silk Exchange

Opposite the Central Market stands the Lonja, one of the great buildings of European civil Gothic, built at the end of the 15th century for the silk trade. A World Heritage Site since 1996, its hall of twisted columns is one of the most beautiful rooms in the city.

Mercado de Colón

Built in 1916, it is one of the gems of Valencian modernism, with its iron structure and brick and ceramic façade. Today it is a food hall, with cafés, horchaterías and restaurants, and a few produce stalls.

• What to do: an aperitif, a vermouth or a horchata in a unique building.
• When to go: at lunchtime or in the afternoon.
• Nearby: Calle Colón and the Ensanche, the city's shopping district.

Russafa Market

The heart of the Russafa neighbourhood. A genuine local market, with greengrocers, butchers and fishmongers serving the residents, and around it, cafés, galleries and restaurants.

• What to do: buy seasonal fruit and vegetables and have breakfast in the neighbourhood.
• When to go: in the morning, ideally on Saturday.

Cabanyal Market

In the old fishermen's quarter, a step from the beach. Its fish and its neighbourhood feel make it a perfect stop before a walk by the sea.

• What to do: see the catch of the day and have something in the surrounding bars.
• When to go: in the morning, before heading to the beach.

Tips for visiting a market

• Go early: first thing there is more produce and fewer people.
• Bring a bag and some cash, although many stalls take cards.
• Ask at the stalls: the sellers are the best guide to what is in season.
• Respect the work: it is a real market, not a museum; ask before photographing a stall.
• Combine it with an almuerzo, the very Valencian mid-morning break.

From market to table

After the market, the natural next step is to sit down to rice or seasonal produce. Here are the typical Valencian tapas and where to have paella for dinner in Valencia. And if you want to finish with a view, on Paseo de la Alameda, beside the Turia, Àtic, Palau Alameda's panoramic restaurant, serves rice dishes, market fish and has a terrace.

For more plans around the city, here is Valencia off the beaten track and things to do near the Turia Gardens.

Frequently asked questions

What are Valencia's historic markets?

The best known are the Central Market, Mercado de Colón, Russafa Market and Cabanyal Market. Next to the Central Market is the Silk Exchange, the old building of the silk trade.

When is Valencia's Central Market open?

Monday to Saturday mornings. It is closed on Sundays and public holidays. Saturday is the liveliest day.

What to buy at the Central Market?

Fruit and vegetables from the huerta, salted fish such as mojama and hueva, charcuterie, spices and seasonal produce.

What is in Mercado de Colón?

Cafés, horchaterías and restaurants in a modernist building from 1916, with a few produce stalls. Ideal for an aperitif or a horchata.

Is the Silk Exchange worth visiting?

Yes. It is a World Heritage Site, one of the great buildings of European civil Gothic and right opposite the Central Market.

Which is the best neighbourhood market in Valencia?

Russafa and El Cabanyal are two of the most authentic: markets with neighbourhood life, fewer tourists and good produce.